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I had exactly the same problem on my 09 GT. The pins and plug experienced corrosion on them. I place toilet bowl cleaner over a cue tip and placed on both...I Permit set for a couple of minutes then sprayed water to clean out in addition to blowing out with air. I then used die electric to guard from possibly happening once more.
Could try the correction proposed from the TSB and cleaning the MAF/IAF as prompt even further up in this thread if I get a chance this weekend.
When turning to the ideal while transferring the seem receives louder, and when turning into the remaining while shifting the sound will get quieter. Based upon this I changed the entrance driver's side wheel bearing. This did not have an affect on the seem.
toyota.com for a few days for $15 and print from the matrix maintenance handbook to PDF. Time consuming to save a huge selection of PDFs one after the other but I had the time to spare and did not have $two hundred to spare.
Edit: Took a think about the repair handbook. If it's a front pace sensor It truly is a fairly easy 15 minute occupation (Really don't even have to eliminate the wheel). If it's a rear pace sensor, it's a royal PITA.
Update: This early morning I compensated somewhat more attention and I could feel it coming through the steering wheel and the ground pan.
So you're chasing a noise that's been described just similar to a terrible wheel bearing. Will be logically to unquestionably do away with that as the opposite possibility than to carry on to marvel just what the sounds is. *shrugs*
I do think the sounds would get louder Once i website turned appropriate / loaaded the bearing, but that was again in February, and I'm not one hundred% postive that is certainly proper.
2) The 2.4L is understood to burn oil, so your intake is just not out on the norm. IIRC, this is due to faulty piston rings that allow the oil to blow by, or something of that sort.
You could potentially also get an thought whether it is a burnt valve by checking the valve clearance. In case the clearance is limited or none, you've got very good odds that it is a burnt valve. Any tests you do will return to a compression check or pulling The pinnacle off and tearing items down to seek out exactly where the foremost compression loss is at. Every little thing has have on on it at this point so correcting the foremost induce need to have the compression again but don't count on it to run just like a new motor because the rest of the engine is still has dress in on it far too.
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